![]() If any are bent significantly, that one can hit another part of the baler and break the shear pin. Next check all of the roller bars in the unit. What is the moisture of the bale? If the bale is too wet, it will be too heavy and shear the pin before the bale chamber is full. Removing the hay in small sections can also work. We've found that a spare bale spear works well. Standing on the kicker can help the bale roll out if sufficient weight is added. Otherwise, you need to pull, cut or pry the bale out. If it is large enough it may roll out even if it isn't wrapped when the tailgate is up (try driving up hill). If it tears in use, it may wrap around the pickup and cause the shear pin to break.) This may apply to twine as well but I do not have experience with it happening with the twine tied 853 baler.)įor the rest of the checks, you will have to remove any bale that is in the baler. (If the knife doesn't cut the net wrap, it will get caught in the tailgate and the rest of the baler. If your baler uses net wrap, make sure that the wrap isn't caught in the unit. It's possible for the gauge on the baler to read low.) If the pressure is out of the operating range, the roller bars can hit other parts of the baler and cause the shear pin to break. (Make sure that you are in the operating range with a regular pressure gauge. Start at and use the Look up parts by equipment on the left of the page or see your manual. New Holland has a parts list for the baler on their site. Also check the year of your baler, there are substitute shear bolts available that do not work on a range of the 853 baler. Make sure that you have the correct shear pin for the pickup (wide or regular). Hope I could be of some help.ĭo you mean the driveline protection shear pin (pickup, roll the bale and wrap it) or the overfill protection shear pin?įor the driveline shear pin, check the type of pickup that you have. I started having problems with mine when the twine started wearing a pretty deep groove in one of the parts it dragged across (dont remember which part it was) but anyway, I replaced and reshimmed accordingly, and it ties really good now. I am assuming that you are talking about an old square baler since I dont know what you have for sure. Some times penetrating oil on the moving parts of a knotter will do wonders. Sometimes you can have tying problems from bad twine that might have been damp or knotters rusty and not moving right. Balers can be very complicated machines and you need the manual to dial them in right unless you know that machine like the back of your hand. Both of mine have the tag riveted to the flywheel side of the frame.Mine are old john deere balers. There shuold be a tag somewhere fastened to the machine. The first thing you need is the make, model and serial numbers. I bale myself and work on my own machinery.
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